Go on, ask us what SS16’s first key buy is? The slip dress is back and looking slinkier than ever – trimmed with scalloped lingerie lace at Celine, in 90s satin or see-thru chiffon at Saint Laurent, and layered over fine knits at Pucci. With underwear as outerwear as a lead concept, SS16 is looking pretty sexy already, we’d say.
…And in soft gingham dresses and loose blanket trousers, how could it not be? Victoria Beckham, Celine and Stella McCartney are all ordering us to check up before the season ahead, reinventing fashion’s favourite patterns in easy, breezy new silhouettes.
How many sweet and sour rainbow clashes can one designer work into a single look? The challenge was on as Christopher Kane, Gucci, Balmain and Dries Van Noten presented their Pantone hits in new graphic effects – think patchwork star-bursts from Kane and cool Trompe-l’œil at Gucci.
SS16’s big romance played out at Michael Kors, Miu Miu, Roberto Cavalli and more, as ruffles became a key detail trend. Quantity and quality were both important here – take your cue from Mary Katrantzou’s more minimal, structured tiers, or go all out in a shredded Marques Almeida number.
The majority of designers showed some kind of super stripe, but our top marks go to Missoni, Roksanda and Prada, who experimented with chopped, curled and scattered lines. For SS16, the stripe is oh so right.
Christian Dior’s soft focus led the dozens of tributes to sheer beauty, with almost half a collection dedicated to misty organzas and foamy chiffons. The trick to working this dreamy trend will be in the layering, building up opacity for a look that’s suitable for real life.
High shine fabrics are always a spring/summer favourite, but for SS16 the incarnations are cooler and more experimental than ever before. JW Anderson embellished classic sweaters with broken mirror pieces, while Louis Vuitton went future-perfect with their ruched foil minidresses.
From Saint Laurent to Vetments, the 1990s fashion scene was the most popular decade to mine for inspiration at the SS16 shows. Channel your inner Kate Moss by teaming your slip with wellies and an oversized jacket as at Saint Laurent, or take some sporty street styling tips from the Alexander Wang show. Even the tracksuit made a seriously chic comeback, with Edie Campbell modelling Chloe’s new velour number. We never thought we’d see the day.
The humble gap year rucksack has been given a haute makeover thanks to Burberry, who embroidered each model’s initials into their canvas and nylon wares. Elsewhere, Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim luxed up the traditional shape, while Rick Owens used, um, other humans in his demonstration of piggy backs.
Move over Duchess Kate, the tiara’s taken on a cool new runway-ready guise. No look at Saint Laurent or Miu Miu was complete without its crowning glory. Maybe an ornate headband would be a more office-appropriate nod to the trend, but come festival season, we’ll all be finding our inner urban princess.
It’s time to flaunt every jewel in your box. Let the layering commence, as Gucci declares that more is more when it comes to accessorising for the spring 2016 fashion season. The berets, the brooches, the Deirdre Barlow specs… pile them high and get yourself down to Abigail’s Party, stat.
The classic chunky chain gets a cool-over for spring, re-imagined in wavy chokers at JW Anderson, or scrunched into heavy clutch handles at Marni.